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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.